Out now in Habitus magazine - here’s a longer version of my article:
Forget Venice. The epitome of a city on water has a fair rival in Far Northern Europe. The unassuming trading port of Hamburg – much closer to Copenhagen than other German cities like Munich or Frankfurt – offers more than “just” seafaring history, beautiful buildings and an abundance of waterways splashed throughout the cityscape.
The sounds of water – boats bumping against docks, canals rushing past historic housefronts, swans leisurely paddling past and rivers gurgling under bridges – are everywhere. No matter where you’re bound, in Hamburg, you’ll be crossing water in some form or shape. There are around 2,500 bridges in the city state; more than in Venice, Amsterdam and London combined.
In fact, if there ever was an ode to the ocean, Hamburg would be it. Nautical elements can be found throughout but where better to experience the city’s heartsong than at her very core, Hamburger Hafen?
The port of Hamburg officially dates back to May 7, 1189. It’s the day that determined Hamburg’s future as the world’s ninth largest trading port and member of the powerful trading alliance of the Hanse several centuries later. An annual celebration commemorating the day over 820 years ago when ships passing between Hamburg and the open sea were granted exemption from customs duties and also some tax privileges has become the biggest port fest in the world, the Hambuger Hafengeburtstag (port’s birthday party).
Every May, tall ships, traditional ships and yachts – around 300 in total – converge on the river Elbe for the opening parade with much fanfare and the foreshore turns into a veritable fairground with lightshows, performance artists and events on and off the water. But the undeniable highlight is the unparalleled Tug Boat Ballet. It’s a sight that has to be seen to be believed: klutzy tug boats performing bumbling pirouettes only centimetres from the embankment to the music of Johann Strauss.
On any other day, start at Dockland, an imposing glass and steel construction which leans out a 24 degree angle, creating the impression of a space age ocean liner docked on the shores of the river at the entrance to the Harbour. Energetic visitors can also climb the 140 steps to a viewing platform.
Then head to the unpretentious, simple, square and yet intriguing buildings of the nearby Perlenkette (pearl necklace) a recent development reviving a formerly unused and barren area.
Next, go underground for some history in the Alter Elbtunnel, a pedestrian and vehicle tunnel considered a technical sensation when it opened up in 1911. Walking down the 24m metal staircase to cross through one of its two beautifully tiled tubes the chilly air and excitement will creep up your spine in equal measures.
Not quite as exciting but equally enjoyable are the beach clubs which have sprung up over the last few years on either side of the river – complete with sand and palmtrees.
A wander along the Landungsbruecken piers is a must, as is a trip on one of the traditional barges, quick visit to the museum ship Rickmer Rickmer’s or Cap San Diego and seafood lunch or dinner in the nearby Portuguese quarter should all be on your itinerary to get in the swing of all things aquatic before heading to Hamburg’s latest oeuvre, its flagship architectural project the HafenCity.
The International Maritime Museum Hamburg, placed exactly at 10 latitude, is your first port of call. Opened in late June 2008, the museum’s ten decks (that’s what they call the floors here) sum up Hamburg’s obsession with the sea like no other building.
Some guests have already visited the largest private maritime collection in the world 30 times in the 13 months since its opening. They’re fascinated by its 40,000 exhibits.
Costing more than EUR 6 billion, the project HafenCity is Europe’s largest inner city urban development project. It’s set to reshape Hamburg’s city centre drastically, adding an extra 40% of space to the Harbour for residential and business use.
Now is indeed a great time to visit the area, as some of its 20 quarters are already completed, while others haven’t even begun construction. It’s a strangely surreal cityscape to visit, where you’ll find the old warehouse buildings of the Speicherstadt next to cranes and cozy brand new cafes. The project is slated for completion in 2020 and, if you wait another couple of years – until 2012 – with your visit, you’ll perhaps be one of the first to see the star of Hamburg’s new song, the Elbphilharmonie concert hall.
The architectural hybrid of historic cubic shape with brick facade and curving wave-shaped glass structure upper levels will combine history and future of the port in a singular performance place for classical and contemporary music – right at the tip of the new Harbour district, the Kehrwiderspitze – calling on all sailors to return.
